We say goodbye to Ali at the Jonliston Apartments and head east out of Dili, this is our first experience of driving on Asia roads, very quickly we start to get used to the way of the road. A single beep before overtaking on a blind corner with oncoming traffic signifies you are attempting your manoeuvre, this is reinforced by putting you indicator on. Cars or the larger vehicles take priority unless someone flashes you then you flash them back and still overtake.

That day we head up the coast through very windy monstrous vertical climbs, one hill even requires engaging low range. We’re forced to stop to allow a fight between two disgruntled goats and arrive at a volcanic beach homestay mid-afternoon and opt to stay in a beach tent right on the coastline. We awoke to the breaking waves and a fantasist sunrise, pack the car up and headed towards the Indonesia border at Mota’ain. We are advised to get there before midday as the officials take a lunch break and sometimes not all return.

This is our first land border crossing and we are both a little nervous about the process, first we clear Timor-Leste passport control, then we get the carnet-de-passport stamped for existing Timor-Leste, drive 1km across no man’s land to the Indonesia border, get our pre-approved 60 day visa’s stamped then head over to sort out the car. Tristan takes two officials on a tour of the car and explains in hand signals what most of the items are going to be used for. This check, we think, is to see if we’re smuggling people or contraband across the borders, the officials looked perplexed and just smile and nod until they say “Bagus” which means good. Tristan heads back to the office where Robyn is telling the officials which documentation to stamp, which to keep and which bit we need. Not sure if they were thankful for the instruction never the less we have all our documentation officiated and are allowed to enter into Indonesia. Welcome to Indonesia!